Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2005 2:47 am
The voltage regulator and battery monitor are shipped from the factory with their default settings. These are not optimal for battery life, engine running time, or peace-of-mind. Here is how to set them up.
DISCLAIMER
The following is provided for your information. Author believes it to be correct, but assumes no liability for errors or omissions.
CAUTIONS
1) This information is correct for standard equipment as of US Hull #149. TPI/Pearson Composites and J/Composites change vendors and specs from time to time during a production run. Make sure to check this against the faceplates on actually installed equipment and owners manuals shipped with your boat.
2) If you are not reasonably familiar with marine electrical systems or do not feel comfortable with any of the steps described below, consult your commissioning yard.
Background
The standard batteries for the J/109 (at least US production as of Fall 2003) are Sonnenschein Power-Tech 8A31DT Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM), with a 20 hour rating of 105 AH. There are two banks (starting and house) on a standard boat, and three banks (two house banks wired in parallel) on a boat with optional factory installed electric refrigeration.
In short, AGMs are different in construction from conventional flooded cell and gelled electrolyte batteries. They use a valve regulated lead-acid technology, which means that rather than venting to the atmosphere, hydrogen and oxygen recombine during charging. The case is therefore sealed except during extreme overcharging. The plates are interleaved with a fiberglass mat, which is saturated with electrolyte. The plates and mats are tightly packed; as a result, the batteries are vibration resistant, and have relatively low internal resistance. This leads to reduced charging time, higher terminal voltage under load, and cooler operation under load. However, they are sensitive to undercharging, and must be recharged to 100% capacity after every discharge cycle or their longevity will be affected. For further information on care and feeding of AGMs, see the article by Steve D'Antonio in the November/December 2004 issue of Ocean Navigator.
The J/109 comes with a sophisticated external regulator and battery monitor. These need to be programmed with settings appropriate to the batteries. Once this is done, batteries will charge rapidly and fully, extending their lives. Also, it will be fairly easy to know how long to run your engine for charging, know when you need to re-charge, keep an eye on on-board power consumption.
Programming the Regulator
The Xantrex (ex-Heart Interface) Digital Alternator Regulator (XAR), which is standard on the J/109 (at least as of Fall 2003 US production), comes factory programmed for universal operation. This is a "safe" setting if the battery type is unknown. However, bulk voltage and absorbtion voltage are .3V lower than recommended for AGMs.
The regulator is located under the quarterberth, on the bulkhead facing the saildrive. You will need to remove the cushions and plywood cover. A flashlight (electric torch) and inspection mirror will be helpful. You'll also need the magnetic screwdriver provided by Xantrex. Following instructions in the XAR owners manual, have a helper turn ignition key on, but do not start engine; ignore the engine alarm. Hold the magnet against the magnetic reed switch in the lower aft quarter of the XAR. The #5 amber LED (the one in the middle of the status array) will illuminate and the #6 red above it will flash. Hold until the red stops flashing and the #7 amber illuminates. Continue to hold as the program selection cycles until all four green LEDs are illuminated, indicating that Program 4 (AGM) has been activated. Then move the magnet away. The instructions also describe what to do if you cycle to the wrong program. When the #7 (second from the top) amber LED flashes, the program has been saved.
The XAR will now bulk charge at 14.4V, absorbtion charge at 14.2V, and float at 13.4V. You will notice the alternator driving at 80A or more immediately after the regulator has ramped up (105 seconds after the engine starts). If the battery banks have been lightly discharged, a short motor out of the harbor will now be enough to recharge to near full capacity.
As an aside, the XAR's optional battery temperature sensor is not standard equipment on the J/109. Aftermarket installation may be a good idea, especially if you sail in the tropics.
Programming the DC Monitor
As of fall 2003 production, a BEP Marine 600 DCM2 DC Monitor was standard on US boats. Programming should be done with all battery banks fully charged, preferably by a smart shore powered charger, left on overnight. To start programming, hold down the V and C buttons simultaniously until the EXIT/RESET/SETUP display appears (3 seconds). Then release and press C to enter setup mode. Then (using the V = up, A = down, C = enter buttons as described in the manual, set the monitor up as follows:
Set Alarm: your preference. It can be irritating at 0330, but not as much as flat batteries.
Battery 1 label:
Battery 2 label: Bank 1 is the nominal engine bank. Bank 2 is the nominal house bank. Bank 2 is also paralleled with Bank 3 on boats with factory refrigeration. It would be a good idea to check the battery connections with a meter.
High Voltage Alarms: Terminal voltage should never exceed 15.0V.
Low Voltage Alarms: Terminal voltage should never get below 11.8V, at which time it is fully discharged.
Low Amp Hours Alarm: Batteries shouldn't be permitted to get much below 50% of charge. If you leave your battery selector at "Both" while not charging, this would be 150 or 160 AH for a 3-bank (factory refrigeration) boat, 110 or 100 AH for a 2-bank boat. If you keep the starting bank isolated while discharging, use 100 or 100 AH for a 3-bank boat, 50 AH for a 2-bank boat.
Actual Capacity: Make sure to set up when batteries are fully charged. Use 210 AH for a 2-bank boat, 310 AH for a 3-bank boat.
Maximum Capacity: Same as Actual Capacity when all banks are fully charged.
Amp Hour Capacity Reset Voltage: 13.4 V
Amp Hour Capacity Reset Amps: 9 for 2-bank boat, 12 for 3-bank boat (monitor considers battery to be full when regulator has been at float for 5 minutes, and drawing less than 4% of bank capacity; these settings may be a bit too high).
Charge Efficiency: This is a fudge factor used by the monitor, and really isn't related to specs provided by the battery manufacturer. .90 is recommended for gel cells. This also seems reasonable for AGMs, although it might be a little low.
Peukert's Exponent: This constant mathematically relates discharge rate to remaining capacity. See the BEP manual for a brief explanation. The manual suggests a science experiment involving completely discharging the batteries twice; I do not recommend doing this. Using manufacturer's data for 20 hour and reserve capacity, the calculated value of Peukert's Exponent is: 1.18.
Voltage Calibration: Should not need to be changed. If you're paranoid, you may want to get a good digital voltmeter and check the battery voltage against that shown on the BEP.
Amp calibration: Best not to mess with this.
Reset Capacity: Do this when the batteries are all fully charged (ideally from shore power, overnight).
If your boat has a different DC Monitor, some of this information may still be helpful.
[Posted by: Dan Grossman
]
DISCLAIMER
The following is provided for your information. Author believes it to be correct, but assumes no liability for errors or omissions.
CAUTIONS
1) This information is correct for standard equipment as of US Hull #149. TPI/Pearson Composites and J/Composites change vendors and specs from time to time during a production run. Make sure to check this against the faceplates on actually installed equipment and owners manuals shipped with your boat.
2) If you are not reasonably familiar with marine electrical systems or do not feel comfortable with any of the steps described below, consult your commissioning yard.
Background
The standard batteries for the J/109 (at least US production as of Fall 2003) are Sonnenschein Power-Tech 8A31DT Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM), with a 20 hour rating of 105 AH. There are two banks (starting and house) on a standard boat, and three banks (two house banks wired in parallel) on a boat with optional factory installed electric refrigeration.
In short, AGMs are different in construction from conventional flooded cell and gelled electrolyte batteries. They use a valve regulated lead-acid technology, which means that rather than venting to the atmosphere, hydrogen and oxygen recombine during charging. The case is therefore sealed except during extreme overcharging. The plates are interleaved with a fiberglass mat, which is saturated with electrolyte. The plates and mats are tightly packed; as a result, the batteries are vibration resistant, and have relatively low internal resistance. This leads to reduced charging time, higher terminal voltage under load, and cooler operation under load. However, they are sensitive to undercharging, and must be recharged to 100% capacity after every discharge cycle or their longevity will be affected. For further information on care and feeding of AGMs, see the article by Steve D'Antonio in the November/December 2004 issue of Ocean Navigator.
The J/109 comes with a sophisticated external regulator and battery monitor. These need to be programmed with settings appropriate to the batteries. Once this is done, batteries will charge rapidly and fully, extending their lives. Also, it will be fairly easy to know how long to run your engine for charging, know when you need to re-charge, keep an eye on on-board power consumption.
Programming the Regulator
The Xantrex (ex-Heart Interface) Digital Alternator Regulator (XAR), which is standard on the J/109 (at least as of Fall 2003 US production), comes factory programmed for universal operation. This is a "safe" setting if the battery type is unknown. However, bulk voltage and absorbtion voltage are .3V lower than recommended for AGMs.
The regulator is located under the quarterberth, on the bulkhead facing the saildrive. You will need to remove the cushions and plywood cover. A flashlight (electric torch) and inspection mirror will be helpful. You'll also need the magnetic screwdriver provided by Xantrex. Following instructions in the XAR owners manual, have a helper turn ignition key on, but do not start engine; ignore the engine alarm. Hold the magnet against the magnetic reed switch in the lower aft quarter of the XAR. The #5 amber LED (the one in the middle of the status array) will illuminate and the #6 red above it will flash. Hold until the red stops flashing and the #7 amber illuminates. Continue to hold as the program selection cycles until all four green LEDs are illuminated, indicating that Program 4 (AGM) has been activated. Then move the magnet away. The instructions also describe what to do if you cycle to the wrong program. When the #7 (second from the top) amber LED flashes, the program has been saved.
The XAR will now bulk charge at 14.4V, absorbtion charge at 14.2V, and float at 13.4V. You will notice the alternator driving at 80A or more immediately after the regulator has ramped up (105 seconds after the engine starts). If the battery banks have been lightly discharged, a short motor out of the harbor will now be enough to recharge to near full capacity.
As an aside, the XAR's optional battery temperature sensor is not standard equipment on the J/109. Aftermarket installation may be a good idea, especially if you sail in the tropics.
Programming the DC Monitor
As of fall 2003 production, a BEP Marine 600 DCM2 DC Monitor was standard on US boats. Programming should be done with all battery banks fully charged, preferably by a smart shore powered charger, left on overnight. To start programming, hold down the V and C buttons simultaniously until the EXIT/RESET/SETUP display appears (3 seconds). Then release and press C to enter setup mode. Then (using the V = up, A = down, C = enter buttons as described in the manual, set the monitor up as follows:
Set Alarm: your preference. It can be irritating at 0330, but not as much as flat batteries.
Battery 1 label:
Battery 2 label: Bank 1 is the nominal engine bank. Bank 2 is the nominal house bank. Bank 2 is also paralleled with Bank 3 on boats with factory refrigeration. It would be a good idea to check the battery connections with a meter.
High Voltage Alarms: Terminal voltage should never exceed 15.0V.
Low Voltage Alarms: Terminal voltage should never get below 11.8V, at which time it is fully discharged.
Low Amp Hours Alarm: Batteries shouldn't be permitted to get much below 50% of charge. If you leave your battery selector at "Both" while not charging, this would be 150 or 160 AH for a 3-bank (factory refrigeration) boat, 110 or 100 AH for a 2-bank boat. If you keep the starting bank isolated while discharging, use 100 or 100 AH for a 3-bank boat, 50 AH for a 2-bank boat.
Actual Capacity: Make sure to set up when batteries are fully charged. Use 210 AH for a 2-bank boat, 310 AH for a 3-bank boat.
Maximum Capacity: Same as Actual Capacity when all banks are fully charged.
Amp Hour Capacity Reset Voltage: 13.4 V
Amp Hour Capacity Reset Amps: 9 for 2-bank boat, 12 for 3-bank boat (monitor considers battery to be full when regulator has been at float for 5 minutes, and drawing less than 4% of bank capacity; these settings may be a bit too high).
Charge Efficiency: This is a fudge factor used by the monitor, and really isn't related to specs provided by the battery manufacturer. .90 is recommended for gel cells. This also seems reasonable for AGMs, although it might be a little low.
Peukert's Exponent: This constant mathematically relates discharge rate to remaining capacity. See the BEP manual for a brief explanation. The manual suggests a science experiment involving completely discharging the batteries twice; I do not recommend doing this. Using manufacturer's data for 20 hour and reserve capacity, the calculated value of Peukert's Exponent is: 1.18.
Voltage Calibration: Should not need to be changed. If you're paranoid, you may want to get a good digital voltmeter and check the battery voltage against that shown on the BEP.
Amp calibration: Best not to mess with this.
Reset Capacity: Do this when the batteries are all fully charged (ideally from shore power, overnight).
If your boat has a different DC Monitor, some of this information may still be helpful.
[Posted by: Dan Grossman
]